To install a Ford injector pump, it’s important how you go about removing the one you are replacing. If you can avoid it, do not remove the injector pump drive gear cover. It will make the entire installation process and the end-result timing adjustments easier.
Things to Do Before Installation
- If the same pump is being installed, make a reference mark on the pump and upper timing cover.
- Check the fuel supply line seals and replace them as necessary.
- Remove the pump with the injector lines attached. On 7.3 engines, there is a timing adapter on injector #1 (F-Series). Make sure to hold the timing adapter with a backup wrench when removing that line.
- If needed, replace the injector return cap O-rings while the pump is off.
- On motors equipped with a turbocharger, you will want to remove the pump upper mounting stud to allow more room for maneuvering.
- Remove and install the injection pump inlet fitting into the new pump. Replace the O-ring if needed.
- Seal the threads of the injector return line fitting with Loctite 515 Gasket Eliminator or PST.
- Install the injection pump using a Phillips screwdriver or slim line-up punch to align the pump shaft with the gear.
- Place the gear screws into the pump shaft before installing the mounting nuts.
- Apply the injector line nuts onto the injectors before tightening the mounting nuts.
- Wait until the pump timing has been set before mounting the cold idle kicker solenoid.
- If the pump is being replaced, advance it counterclockwise as far as it will go and then tighten the mounting nuts. This will make dynamic timing adjustments easier later when you’re running the motor. If dynamic timing is not available, set the pump to the center of its adjustment range. You can also line up any reference marks on the pump and timing cover.
- Leave the injector lines loose until you’re ready to start the engine.
- To prevent glow plug damage when re-starting the engine, connect a battery charger to one battery and disable the glow plug system.
- Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the cold advance solenoid to help purge air from the pump.
- Crank the engine over in 60-second intervals and tighten each injector line nut as fuel appears at each injector.
- It’s recommended to use a non-alcohol fuel conditioner to control water and algae and promote lubricity.
Things to Keep in Mind
Air in the lines is a given so don’t worry about it. When you are finished installing the injection pump and preparing to start it for the first time, you will end up having to turn it many times to fill up the pump with fuel before it can actually build up pressure to pop the injectors.
Put your batteries on a charger while you are working on your change out to have max cranking capability.
When cranking, it’s best to follow the pattern of 15 seconds on, 2 minutes off, so you don’t end up having to buy a new starter.
It’s smart to label the injector lines, so you don’t accidentally install the lines incorrectly on the new injection pump. Finally, try not to bend or kink the lines, or you will be replacing them.
Injection Pump Timing
After installing the new injector pump and test running the engine, check the timing. The engine is timed off the number one cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke.
There are two different ways to go: static timing and dynamic timing.
Perform all timing adjustments with the engine off!
- Remove the solenoid and fast-idle bracket from the injection pump.
- Use a pump mounting wrench to loosen the three nuts that attached the pump to the engine.
- Use a rotation tool to turn the pump until the timing mark aligns with the mark on the housing.
- Remove the tool and tighten the pump nuts.
- Recheck the timing mark to verify that they are still aligned.
- Re-install the bracket and the solenoid.
Keep in mind the pump must be static timed to get the engine running. Once the engine is assembled and running, the engine should be dynamically timed (with the engine running).
Dynamic Timing (Will Require Special Equipment and Tools)
- Run vehicle until engine is at idle operating temperature.
- Turn off engine and use a timing meter by placing a magnetic pickup in the timing pointer hole. Insert the pickup until it’s almost touching the vibration damper.
- Attach clamp from timing meter adapter to the line pressure sensor on the first injector nozzle and connect it to the timing meter.
- Check the front accessory drive belts are not located near all the wire leads.
- Connect the timing meter to the battery and offset meter by minus 20 degrees.
- Disconnect cold start advance solenoid connector from solenoid terminal.
- If required, adjust throttle control to attain 2000 rpm.
- Raise rear wheels off the ground, make sure you’re in neutral and fire up the engine. Use a throttle control tool and set engine speed to 2000 rpm (no accessory overload). Make note of the injection timing on the timing meter. It should be around 8.5 degrees BTDC at 2000 rpm.
- Activate solenoid terminal by applying battery voltage to cold start.
- Check the timing around 2000 rpm. It should be advanced by at least one degree before the timing you obtained earlier. Replace the fuel injection pump top cover assembly if the advance is less than one degree.
Adjust pump timing if dynamic timing is not within ±2 degrees of specification.
- Shut engine off.
- Make note of timing mark alignment.
- Take off the fast-idle bracket and the solenoid from injection
- Keeping the nuts snug, break torque on nuts that attach the injection pump to pump mounting adapter.
- Use a pump rotating tool on front of the pump. By lightly tapping tool with a rubber mallet, rotate counterclockwise to advance timing.
- Remove your rotating tool and retighten nuts to specification.
- Fire up your engine and recheck the timing.