Iconic Songs Featuring Mustang

Let the Mustang 50th birthday celebration continue! To join in on the fun, USA Today has compiled a list of the Top 50 songs that feature the iconic car. Songs include:

  • Mustang Sally
  • Rocking Horse by Bad English
  • Echo by Eminem
  • Sweet Thing by Keith Urban

Check out USA Today for the full list and get your Mustang on!

Ford Celebrates Mustang Birthday with Empire State Building Unveiling


We owe a big happy birthday post to the Mustang. This year, Ford celebrates 50 years of the Mustang. The car manufacturer is celebrating big, by way of the Empire State Building. Via CBS Local:

Ford is celebrating the golden anniversary of its iconic Mustang by unveiling the new 2015 model from the top of the Empire State Building.

Ford is also planning to build 1,964 limited-edition Mustang GTs in honor the pony car’s 50th anniversary.

The 50 Year Limited Edition cars will be some of the first built when production of the 2015 Mustang begins this year. It will be available in white or blue with either a manual or automatic transmission.

Ford Trucks: New Aluminum Body

To prepare for the huge task of creating a whole fleet of the new F-150, Ford has had to secure most of the automotive grade aluminum that went on sale in 2014. What change could have caused an order like that? Ford’s decided to risk alienating their client base by changing the F-150’s construction by building the body out of a new military grade aluminum.

But a perception of risk is all it is. Though the new F-150 has lost 700 pounds since last year, it’s no less rugged. As Ford’s reporting, the new body is just as strong as the old, and is still attached to a high-strength steel frame. It retains its tough design while also priming new drivers to save a few hundred dollars a year in gas by getting 30 highway mpg.

But it won’t just be a monetary gain. The new F-150 is a touch sleeker than its predecessors. Paired with the new aluminum body it accelerates quicker, breaks shorter, and resists corrosion longer.

But it’s not all good news. Buyers will have to deal with higher insurance premiums and repair costs.

Insurance providers will mostly likely raise their premiums from the lows of previous rates given to F-150 to premiums already paid by owners of other trucks. As for repair costs, many repair shops aren’t licensed to work on aluminum yet, a fact that looms over the cost of any repair. But as with all grey clouds, there’s a silver lining. More shops will certainly be speeding to get their license as more new trucks are sold and both of these expenses should be offset by the higher MPG and lower weight.

Injector Harness 411

Powerstroke diesel engines have gone in to Ford’s Super Duty trucks, E-Series vans and the Excursion since the mid 1990’s. Initially produced by Navistar, (formerly International Truck & Engine,) Ford took production in-house in 2011, today building the fourth generation in Mexico.

Known for good torque and horsepower, the Powerstroke has been a resounding success. Unfortunately it’s also known to have a few weaknesses, one of which is the injector harness.

The injector harness routes electrical signals to the injectors, ensuring fuel is delivered at the right point in the compression stroke. When those signals don’t get through the affected injector(s) won’t operate and the engine runs unevenly, or not at all. Injector harness problems have been widely reported with the 7.3 and the 6.0 liter Powerstroke engines.

7.3 Engine

The “Check Engine” light will be illuminated and the trouble code is “P1316”, meaning a fault with the injector driver module (IDM). A “Buzz” test will check all eight injectors are working, but not many home mechanics are equipped to do this.

The alternative is determine which injectors aren’t operating, (check the exhaust manifold temperatures,) and examine the harness connection supplying those cylinders. Often the connector will be found to have separated, although sometimes a poor connection has caused heating that burns or melts the connector block.

6.0 Engine

Here the problem is the harness routing. Over time it chafes, eventually leading to failure. Complicating matters, the damage is sometimes internal and not visible to the naked eye. Symptoms will usually be one or more injectors not working (though they will be on the same bank,) or random engine shut-offs due to the harness grounding internally.


While it’s possible to buy individual harness components it’s easier to buy a complete kit including valve cover gasket.

Does the Pickup Truck Have a Future in Modern Society?

The current rise in gas prices coupled with government policies for greater fuel efficiency standards (54.5 mpg) in corporate average fuel economy has prompted the question of whether the gas guzzling pickup truck will have a future in modern society. The answer is an unequivocal “yes.” The need for construction workers to haul large equipment or farmers to transport their agricultural products ensures that pickup trucks will be around for quite some time. However, consumers may very well see a revamp of current pickup models and designs.

A roaring economy encouraged the production of powerhouse trucks such as the heavy duty Chevy Silverado or Dodge Ram for personal transport. However, the present era of conservative spending makes these vehicles less appealing for the average consumer. These “beastly” pickups may not disappear altogether, but their numbers will decrease substantially in favor of more fuel efficient pickup designs.

Ford and Chevrolet are leading the pack in making the transition to produce powerful yet economic full-size trucks conducive for everyday consumer usage. Ford’s EcoBoost F-150 provides consumers with a 365 HP V6 engine combined with 20+ mpg fuel economy for hauling supplies, towing or packing gear for vacation travels. The Chevy V8 is soon to follow. Chevy also has the launching of a new mid-size truck in the works with the all-new Colorado.

If fuel prices remain high, pickup manufacturers may lean towards producing compact purpose built trucks. Consumers may even see the return of half-car/half truck vehicles offering greater fuel efficiency, hauling capability and easier carlike handling.

Future fuel costs and advances in auto technology will definitely have an impact on the future of the pickup truck. What remains to be seen is consumer reaction to new pickup truck trends in the future, such as choosing to rent a truck rather than buying, which could completely alter the market.

How To Change a Fuel Tank

If your fuel tank has developed a leak, is punctured or otherwise damaged it may need to be replaced. This is a fairly straight forward task that can be performed easily by the average mechanic. Remember that you should always be safety conscience and make sure you have the necessary tools on-hand before you begin.

What you will need:

  • Working Fire extinguisher
  • Replacement fuel tank
  • Fuel line
  • Hose clamps
  • Safe gas container
  • Floor jack
  • Wrenches, sockets, normal hand tools

Step One:

You will need to drain the gas from the tank being replaced. Once it is drained store it in your storage receptacle for use in your new fuel tank. Drain from the drain cock at the lowest point on the tank by loosening the valve and allowing it to completely drain.

Next Step:

Now you’ll need to remove the fuel lines. These connect to the tank. There are several lines. The large fill tube (where you add gasoline), the fuel supply line which is situated at the lowest point of the tank and then the vent line which allows pressure to be released. You might want to document the set up using a camera, before you disconnect the lines, for later reference.

Drop the rear:

Some vehicles have a beam in the rear. This might be a suspension beam or an axle with rear differential. If your auto has one of these you’ll need to drop the rear suspension by pulling them away from the shocks. Once that is done, support this beam using a floor jack and lower the heavy parts.

Disconnect and remove:

Now disconnect the rear brake lines and the large nuts attaching the rear beam to the frame. Now you can lower the assembly using the jack.

Meet your fuel tank:

The fuel tank is held by 2 metal straps. Remove these by loosening the nuts and they should drop. Pull them downward and they should unhook from each other. Next you install your new fuel tank using the reverse of these direction. This is a reverse of removal installation.

How To Install Cab Marker Lights

Before beginning this relatively easy installation of cab lights, be sure all necessary tools are not just available but carefully set out so they are convenient. Installation requires:

  • 3/8″ air or electric drill
  • 1″ hole bit for saw, 1/8′ pilot drill bit, 3/8″ drill bit
  • 1/4″ ratchet and 1/4″ extension of 6 inch length
  • 1/4″ deep weld socket, 10mm and 1/4″ socket, 7mm or 8 mm
  • Phillips and Flat blade screw drivers
  • Torx bit set for socket or screw driver
  • small wire ties, wire cutter, wire stripper, wire crimper
  • electrical test light
  • Sharpie marker of a stand out color

After taking the lights apart, line them up as seen on cabs, and stand back to visually confirm the alignment. Mark the light installation holes and the end and front and back points of the lights with a Sharpie. Only make dots that are easy to see in aligning the installation. Remove the sun visor supports and the visors themselves. A center overhead console has to be removed, and the front piece you have to unplug for the light wire. Remove plugs off the side posts accessing the bolts. Remove bolts partially, letting them dangle and remove the two screws of the overhead console at rail fronts. A plate slides up in the rails and should be pulled out so access is opened to the roof behind the liner. The liner may have to be pulled down to ease this move.

Drill 1/8″ pilot holes for each mounting bolt and drill 3/8″ holes for mounting bolts and also drill the power plug holes . Use the 3/8″ holes as a pilot for the saw bit and drill out center holes. FYI: The metal will get hot so should be kept off the liner foam with a simple magnet. Apply silicone where lights will be mounted. Put the bases through the holes and apply the nuts on the underside beneath the head liner. Remove excess silicone.

Plug the wiring harness into the farthest access on the driver’s side. You may want to use a hot wire in the fuse box and a ground to make sure they work correctly.

Then put your truck back together, and pop the headlight switch panel cover out. Use test light to connect the park light power, and put covers on bases. Finished!