Let the Mustang 50th birthday celebration continue! To join in on the fun, USA Today has compiled a list of the Top 50 songs that feature the iconic car. Songs include:
- Rocking Horse by Bad English
- Sweet Thing by Keith Urban
Check out USA Today for the full list and get your Mustang on!
We owe a big happy birthday post to the Mustang. This year, Ford celebrates 50 years of the Mustang. The car manufacturer is celebrating big, by way of the Empire State Building. Via CBS Local:
Ford is celebrating the golden anniversary of its iconic Mustang by unveiling the new 2015 model from the top of the Empire State Building.
Ford is also planning to build 1,964 limited-edition Mustang GTs in honor the pony car’s 50th anniversary.
The 50 Year Limited Edition cars will be some of the first built when production of the 2015 Mustang begins this year. It will be available in white or blue with either a manual or automatic transmission.
To prepare for the huge task of creating a whole fleet of the new F-150, Ford has had to secure most of the automotive grade aluminum that went on sale in 2014. What change could have caused an order like that? Ford’s decided to risk alienating their client base by changing the F-150’s construction by building the body out of a new military grade aluminum.
But a perception of risk is all it is. Though the new F-150 has lost 700 pounds since last year, it’s no less rugged. As Ford’s reporting, the new body is just as strong as the old, and is still attached to a high-strength steel frame. It retains its tough design while also priming new drivers to save a few hundred dollars a year in gas by getting 30 highway mpg.
But it won’t just be a monetary gain. The new F-150 is a touch sleeker than its predecessors. Paired with the new aluminum body it accelerates quicker, breaks shorter, and resists corrosion longer.
But it’s not all good news. Buyers will have to deal with higher insurance premiums and repair costs.
Insurance providers will mostly likely raise their premiums from the lows of previous rates given to F-150 to premiums already paid by owners of other trucks. As for repair costs, many repair shops aren’t licensed to work on aluminum yet, a fact that looms over the cost of any repair. But as with all grey clouds, there’s a silver lining. More shops will certainly be speeding to get their license as more new trucks are sold and both of these expenses should be offset by the higher MPG and lower weight.
Powerstroke diesel engines have gone in to Ford’s Super Duty trucks, E-Series vans and the Excursion since the mid 1990’s. Initially produced by Navistar, (formerly International Truck & Engine,) Ford took production in-house in 2011, today building the fourth generation in Mexico.
Known for good torque and horsepower, the Powerstroke has been a resounding success. Unfortunately it’s also known to have a few weaknesses, one of which is the injector harness.
The injector harness routes electrical signals to the injectors, ensuring fuel is delivered at the right point in the compression stroke. When those signals don’t get through the affected injector(s) won’t operate and the engine runs unevenly, or not at all. Injector harness problems have been widely reported with the 7.3 and the 6.0 liter Powerstroke engines.
The “Check Engine” light will be illuminated and the trouble code is “P1316”, meaning a fault with the injector driver module (IDM). A “Buzz” test will check all eight injectors are working, but not many home mechanics are equipped to do this.
The alternative is determine which injectors aren’t operating, (check the exhaust manifold temperatures,) and examine the harness connection supplying those cylinders. Often the connector will be found to have separated, although sometimes a poor connection has caused heating that burns or melts the connector block.
Here the problem is the harness routing. Over time it chafes, eventually leading to failure. Complicating matters, the damage is sometimes internal and not visible to the naked eye. Symptoms will usually be one or more injectors not working (though they will be on the same bank,) or random engine shut-offs due to the harness grounding internally.
While it’s possible to buy individual harness components it’s easier to buy a complete kit including valve cover gasket.
The current rise in gas prices coupled with government policies for greater fuel efficiency standards (54.5 mpg) in corporate average fuel economy has prompted the question of whether the gas guzzling pickup truck will have a future in modern society. The answer is an unequivocal “yes.” The need for construction workers to haul large equipment or farmers to transport their agricultural products ensures that pickup trucks will be around for quite some time. However, consumers may very well see a revamp of current pickup models and designs.
A roaring economy encouraged the production of powerhouse trucks such as the heavy duty Chevy Silverado or Dodge Ram for personal transport. However, the present era of conservative spending makes these vehicles less appealing for the average consumer. These “beastly” pickups may not disappear altogether, but their numbers will decrease substantially in favor of more fuel efficient pickup designs.
Ford and Chevrolet are leading the pack in making the transition to produce powerful yet economic full-size trucks conducive for everyday consumer usage. Ford’s EcoBoost F-150 provides consumers with a 365 HP V6 engine combined with 20+ mpg fuel economy for hauling supplies, towing or packing gear for vacation travels. The Chevy V8 is soon to follow. Chevy also has the launching of a new mid-size truck in the works with the all-new Colorado.
If fuel prices remain high, pickup manufacturers may lean towards producing compact purpose built trucks. Consumers may even see the return of half-car/half truck vehicles offering greater fuel efficiency, hauling capability and easier carlike handling.
Future fuel costs and advances in auto technology will definitely have an impact on the future of the pickup truck. What remains to be seen is consumer reaction to new pickup truck trends in the future, such as choosing to rent a truck rather than buying, which could completely alter the market.
If your fuel tank has developed a leak, is punctured or otherwise damaged it may need to be replaced. This is a fairly straight forward task that can be performed easily by the average mechanic. Remember that you should always be safety conscience and make sure you have the necessary tools on-hand before you begin.
What you will need:
- Working Fire extinguisher
- Replacement fuel tank
- Fuel line
- Hose clamps
- Safe gas container
- Floor jack
- Wrenches, sockets, normal hand tools
You will need to drain the gas from the tank being replaced. Once it is drained store it in your storage receptacle for use in your new fuel tank. Drain from the drain cock at the lowest point on the tank by loosening the valve and allowing it to completely drain.
Now you’ll need to remove the fuel lines. These connect to the tank. There are several lines. The large fill tube (where you add gasoline), the fuel supply line which is situated at the lowest point of the tank and then the vent line which allows pressure to be released. You might want to document the set up using a camera, before you disconnect the lines, for later reference.
Drop the rear:
Some vehicles have a beam in the rear. This might be a suspension beam or an axle with rear differential. If your auto has one of these you’ll need to drop the rear suspension by pulling them away from the shocks. Once that is done, support this beam using a floor jack and lower the heavy parts.
Disconnect and remove:
Now disconnect the rear brake lines and the large nuts attaching the rear beam to the frame. Now you can lower the assembly using the jack.
Meet your fuel tank:
The fuel tank is held by 2 metal straps. Remove these by loosening the nuts and they should drop. Pull them downward and they should unhook from each other. Next you install your new fuel tank using the reverse of these direction. This is a reverse of removal installation.
Before beginning this relatively easy installation of cab lights, be sure all necessary tools are not just available but carefully set out so they are convenient. Installation requires:
- 3/8″ air or electric drill
- 1″ hole bit for saw, 1/8′ pilot drill bit, 3/8″ drill bit
- 1/4″ ratchet and 1/4″ extension of 6 inch length
- 1/4″ deep weld socket, 10mm and 1/4″ socket, 7mm or 8 mm
- Phillips and Flat blade screw drivers
- Torx bit set for socket or screw driver
- small wire ties, wire cutter, wire stripper, wire crimper
- electrical test light
- Sharpie marker of a stand out color
After taking the lights apart, line them up as seen on cabs, and stand back to visually confirm the alignment. Mark the light installation holes and the end and front and back points of the lights with a Sharpie. Only make dots that are easy to see in aligning the installation. Remove the sun visor supports and the visors themselves. A center overhead console has to be removed, and the front piece you have to unplug for the light wire. Remove plugs off the side posts accessing the bolts. Remove bolts partially, letting them dangle and remove the two screws of the overhead console at rail fronts. A plate slides up in the rails and should be pulled out so access is opened to the roof behind the liner. The liner may have to be pulled down to ease this move.
Drill 1/8″ pilot holes for each mounting bolt and drill 3/8″ holes for mounting bolts and also drill the power plug holes . Use the 3/8″ holes as a pilot for the saw bit and drill out center holes. FYI: The metal will get hot so should be kept off the liner foam with a simple magnet. Apply silicone where lights will be mounted. Put the bases through the holes and apply the nuts on the underside beneath the head liner. Remove excess silicone.
Plug the wiring harness into the farthest access on the driver’s side. You may want to use a hot wire in the fuse box and a ground to make sure they work correctly.
Then put your truck back together, and pop the headlight switch panel cover out. Use test light to connect the park light power, and put covers on bases. Finished!
Cars are a complicated thing and often parts go bad without your even knowing where to start in order to fix them. That being said, when something like the ICP sensor goes out in your car, there are a few different things you should know about what it can do to the performance of your car. The ICP sensor, like many sensors in your car, can affect the overall performance of your car.
The first thing that many people ask when the ICP sensor goes out is, does this affect my fuel mileage. The first and foremost condition that is directly caused by a bad ICP sensor is of course revving and shutting off without warning. The ICP sensor does not necessarily affect the gas mileage but it can affect the overall running of your car or truck. In a diesel engine, the ICP sensor works as a moderator of sorts that insures the engine is running at maximum efficiency. ICP stands for Injection Control Pressure. This means that the sensor provides feedback and indicates the needed and existing injection pressure in the injectors.
Though it can have an adverse effect on fuel economy in a limited range, disconnecting a sensor or having a sensor that is not working properly does not mean that you will go from having a truck or car that gets 30 miles per gallon that plummets to 10 miles per gallon. Likely, the change will be small so you may not even notice that there has been a change in fuel economy. More likely, you will notice that the engine is not being controlled as specifically or as closely as it may have been in the past. This can be seen through revving and stopping that is directly related to the pressure that should be indicated by the faulty sensor.
With any car repair it can be difficult to spot the exact reason why any part may have gone out or worn out. With many parts, there are specific reasons that often lead to failure and knowing a bit about these possible causes for failure can help you to keep your car up and running for far longer. With a complicated part like the EGR cooler, there are two or three possible causes for failure and each points to the need for further service of your vehicle.
The first and most common cause is of course restricted coolant flow. This generally happens when there is a blockage or contaminants in the oil cooler. This restriction of coolant makes it possible for the EGR cooler to stop functioning properly due to increased heat that often throws the sensor off. This restriction of coolant is something that should be looked into by a professional mechanic to help rule out any other issues that may be hiding. A restriction in coolant flow can also affect the rest of your engine and may cause overheating and other serious issues that could lead to the need to completely overhaul a system.
Another cause may be that the part has simply worn out or become old. Often times sensors and complicated parts like the EGR cooler are very finicky. This means that they can wear out easily just through normal wear and tear. Also, taking the time to have your car serviced and properly maintained is the best way to insure that parts do not wear out. Often, a mechanic can spot issues before they become major issues making it possible to correct these problems before they cause even more damage to your system that may already be compromised.
Installing off-road lights for the Ford F150 is easy. In the package, you will find zip ties, the lights, a switch, and 30 feet of wiring harness, including a relay. The following steps make this project easy.
1. Disconnect the battery cables, then remove the in-line fuses from the wiring harness.
2. Plug the relay into the harness, making sure the relay is both grounded and mounted. This is done by using the included screw to connect both the black ground wire and the relay box to the inside of the frame.
3. Using the zip ties, you will need to tie down the lamp lines that go to the bumper. The easiest route to the bumper is via the frame and along the radiator.
4. You will then need to run the other lines into the dash, which is done by following the wheel well between the door and the fender frame, then dropping the line down the fender, and running the line under the carpet inside the cab.
5. Next, you will need to pop of the dash trim and install the switch on the left side, drilling a small hole into the dash panel. The switch will be connected to a green wire and a white wire; pull tight to be sure they are long enough. The brown wire is the ground wire, which can be mounted under the dash inside the cab.
6. Now is a good time to re-insert those in-line fuses and then install the switch through the dash panel into the three wires, using the ring tightener at the back. Re-install your dash panel, and don’t forget to put all your knobs back on. You are now ready to install the lights, and then the job is done.