Replace 6.0L FICM
The Tools for the Job
The removal of these particular components will require a socket wrench, 10mm socket, an 8mm socket, pliers and a special T-20 socket to place on a volt meter in case you want to test the voltage output from the thickum.
In order to stem burn hazards from the engine itself and or the coolant, be sure that the engine is completely cooled before removing the thickum.
First, reposition the coolant reservoir. By following the steps listed here, you will avoid having to drain any of the fluid in the reservoir.
Next, locate the tank and the plate that holds it in place. It should be sitting toward the back of the hooded area of the car. Use the 8mm socket to remove the two bolts on top of the tank.
Once the bolts are removed, reposition the tank by sliding it toward the front of the vehicle. Because you will be moving toward the driver’s side fender, you will need to disconnect the small hose on the passenger side of the tank. Be sure to keep the tank tilted so that the coolant does not escape once the tank is removed.
Once the tank is properly set aside, use your pliers to remove the hose clamp on the reservoir. Because the tank is pressurized, remove the hose clamp slowly. Now, remove the tank over to the driver’s side to gain access to the thickum. Keep in mind that the hose contains coolant; so placing it into a container may be best. Fluid will shoot from it when the vehicle is cranked for testing.
Testing the Thickum
Use the T-20 bit to remove the window covering the test terminals. You may have to pry the thickum from its bedding by using a flathead screwdriver. Use volt meter to test the output strength of the module. Keep in mind that the models predating 2007 will have seven terminals as opposed to four. Do not let anything accept the terminal receptors touch the thickum housing; you don’t want to fry your module. Four a four-pin module, test the pin closest to the driver’s side. For a seven pin module test the top pin closest to the driver’s side. You should get a minimum reading of 45 while the engine is cranked.
Use the 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the fuel injection control module. Once the bolts are removed, lift up on the module to gain access to the wiring system. The wiring is attached by tabbed fixtures. You should be able to squeeze the tabs and gently remove them. When the time comes to reinstall the wires, press the tabs until you hear a snap. Take the removed and de-wired thickum and place it into a safe container.